Crete (continued)

After a leisurely breakfast and a relaxing morning around the pool we finally set out just before noon – this life of leisure could easily become addictive! Against some local advice we choose to take a minor road from Matala along the southern coastline but find it to be in much better condition than described, being sealed all the way apart from a short section under construction. This proves to be a good choice as it winds its way up through the arid, rocky and sparsely vegetated hills with the occasional farmhouse and even more occasional little townships, and glimpses of southern coastal beaches. We descend to the little coastal resort town of Agio, where we enjoy lunch under a palm tree near the water’s edge while watching the passing parade of both holiday makers and local fishermen going about their business.

We take the high road out of Agio and shortly see a trackscavator perched most precariously above the road as it digs an access track to a building site. We hold our breath as we cautiously approach the hairpin bend immediately below and just as well, for right in the middle of the road is a huge boulder that has just been displaced. Fortunately we are both watching the road and we manage to squeeze by without incident. We soon find ourselves descending through the Kourtalioyilio Canyon and out onto a rare flat stretch of land leading into the town of Plakias which is our next overnight stop.


Lunch at Agio

The gorge

Our hotel, the Castello, is a fine looking, almost Spanish style building set among beautiful gardens where we are met by our genial host. No formalities such as forms to fill in and passports here, just a genuinely warm welcome. The swimming pool, which we can look down upon from our toilet window, is shared with the hotel next door so we have a short walk to access it but are soon enjoying a swim and a relaxing read on the sun beds under a canopy of leafy green. Then it’s back to the balcony to dry the laundry and catch up with the diary.

Hotel Castello

In the cool of the evening we head for the beach – an easy 3-4 minute stroll away – for a little bit of shopping as we wander along the main street then down to the foreshore. We find a lovely little beachfront restaurant and enjoy the local speciality of freshly caught sardines along with salad and garlic bread, all washed down with a cool beer and a 7UP as we watch the light gradually fade over the water.

View from the toilet window

Sardines for tea