Rocky Mountains NP

Rocky Mountain National Park

The billion or so year old rocks forming the Rocky Mountains were forced upwards like folds in a crumpled rug many millions of years ago during a period of intense tectonic activity and then sculpted to their present form by glaciation, rain, wind and extremes of temperature. Set towards the southern end of the mighty 4320 kilometre long mountain chain which forms the backbone of North America, the National Park, proclaimed in1915, provides ready access to alpine tundra and subalpine forest environments to any who care to travel the Trail Ridge Road - the highest major highway in North America at around 3,700 metres.

From Loveland in the east, it's about 56 kilometres to the Moraine Park campground following the Big Thomson River which, during a flood in 2013, caused by a dam bursting, damaged houses perched on its banks. Many are still there – one half washed away, the floor clinging to the edge of the river bank with the washing machine and dryer still in situ.

Care needs to be taken as we pass big-horned sheep, mule deer and elk on the way to the campground where we spend the night in the midst of a violent thunder storm. We awake, however, to a brilliant morning which proves to be the fore-runner of an absolutely perfect day to travel to the top of Colorado.

Trail Ridge Road begins in a montane environment at Deer Ridge Junction amidst stands of Ponderosa and Lodgepole pines, Douglas fir and Engelmann spruce interspersed with large tracts of mountain meadow and, of course, numerous streams and wetlands. Above the treetops we can see the beckoning massive peaks awaiting us. When people talk of the grandeur of the Rockies they aren't kidding. We stop at almost every pull-out to gaze in wonder at the vista before us.

Higher up in the mountains, montane gives way to sub-alpine vegetation. Trees here have to endure much harsher conditions and evidence of this can be seen in their wind-distorted shapes on the more exposed slopes. Growth can, in places, be prevented on the windward side of spruce and fir trees resulting in flag or banner trees. The approach of autumn is evidenced in the colours of the meadows and the small stands of Aspen sheltering in protected gullies and cirques. From one point along the road we look down on a huge (up to 30 metres thick) alluvial fan created by the 2013 dam burst which caused so much damage along the Big Thomson River way below.

At around 3400 metres we move above the tree-line and into a truly alpine environment of tiny, ground- hugging plants and stunted shrubs. On a gloriously warm, calm day like today it's difficult to imagine that average temperatures are below freezing for nearly eight months of the year and the wind so strong that plants just a few centimetres high may send taproots up to two metres into the ground to anchor themselves. Yellow-bellied marmots with roly-poly fat tummies and pikas busily laying in stores are out in numbers enjoying the sunshine and preparing for the long winter ahead. Near the Alpine Visitor Centre, at the top of the road, we join many others on a three kilometre - rather slow at this altitude - stroll to a higher viewpoint which we share with three Big Horn rams reclining in the sunshine . Views of the surrounding 4,000 metre peaks, the glacial cirques with tarns nestling within, the permanent (for now at least) snow drifts and the colourful alpine meadows combine to produce a stunning panorama.

As the saying goes, "What goes up must come down," and so begins the long descent to the west. A short distance below the visitor centre the road crosses the Continental Divide where 'the chance fall of a drop of water - by only a matter of feet' will determine whether it will end up in the Atlantic or the Pacific Ocean. Just to the east of the divide is picturesque Poudre Lake, the waters of which join the Cache la Poudre River on its journey to the Atlantic, while to the west is the catchment for the headwaters of the infant Colorado River which we will see gradually increase in size over the next few weeks as we head for the Grand Canyon. We eventually reach the Kawuneeche Valley - once beneath glacial ice 800 metres thick - and now home to the river which we follow southward for some time before heading west towards Aspen on Highway 82.

Our overnight campground is another ‘first’ for us…an RV park for horses.  While there are perfectly acceptable sites for people without horses, one section of the park has large sites to accommodate an RV/horse float or both, and a permanent horse yard.  This is the west where horse is king and, while many folk like to travel with their dog, cat or budgie, some like to travel with their horse, and many places have designated horse trails, separate from hiking trails.

Our entire route today is designated as scenic and we are not disappointed for we pass soaring peaks, beautiful  lakes, lovely little tarns, colourful alpine meadows and dense conifer forests as we climb steadily, through the mile-long Eisenhower Memorial Tunnel, and upwards, ever upwards,  to Independence Pass.  At around 3,700 metres the Pass provides a magnificent panorama in all directions although the twisting (vehicles over 9 metres can't negotiate some of the switchbacks), narrow road, with occasional overhangs, requires 100% attention.  After the drive, the Forest Service 'Difficult Campsite' sounds rather ominous, but is in fact a very quiet, secluded  area just a short distance out of Aspen with yet another very friendly, helpful supervisor in attendance.

Aspen proves to be a really nice place to 'just be' as Elaine puts it. We park a few kilometres out of town and take the free shuttle bus in before joining locals and visitors alike just strolling the streets, browsing galleries and shops, enjoying a coffee and spending a peaceful and reflective hour or so in the John Denver Memorial Garden. We lunch at the same little restaurant where we had coffee – the only eatery in town that was always crowded, always a good omen, we find.

The ski lifts are at the end of the main street, and while we had planned to take the gondola up the slope to take in the view and then walk one of the trails, the fact that it isn’t in service puts paid to that idea.  Instead, we climb out of town to the Ajax Trail, which is not quite at the planned altitude but does provide a pleasant afternoon walk.

Aspen provides another ‘people’ moment for us – we meet Andrea, whose daughter, Amy, is one of the great staff at Cancer Council Victoria where we volunteer our time every Friday.  Andrea now lives and works in Aspen and she and her partner, Blade, give us a great insight into this cosmopolitan town where the rich and famous join forces with ordinary folk to make life interesting. A tour of the town, home to 50 billionaires, and their private jets, completes a great day…and it will take several Powerball wins before we can contemplate a move, even to a humble residential option!

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