Yosemite

Yosemite:

Having entered the Park from the south and stopping briefly to wander among a number of faithfully restored and relocated historic buildings at Wawona, we embark upon a challenging 23 kilometre drive to Glacier Point. This vantage point, almost 1000 metres above the valley floor, provides a commanding panoramic view of Yosemite Village, the Merced River and its waterfalls, the massive Half Dome and even taller surrounding granite peaks stretching away to the horizon.

While so very different in many ways, the Grand Canyon and Yosemite share one thing in common and that is their breathtaking scale and the sense of wonder and amazement that they evoke. We have stood beside a number of people who, like us, are witnessing either one for the first time and their reaction is pretty much the same – a few moments of wide-eyed silence followed by a deep breath and a “WOW!” (or the equivalent in a host of other languages).

Instead of gazing down to the Colorado 1500 metres below, here in Yosemite Valley you are gazing skyward 1500 metres as you look towards the distinctively imposing summit of Half Dome which, for the last 150 years has been ‘the enduring and instantly recognisable symbol of Yosemite’.  In the words of John Muir, this place “is by far the grandest of all the special temples of Nature I was ever permitted to enter”. There is certainly a very special ‘feel’ – almost mystique – about standing among such commanding massifs. 

Theodore Roosevelt, “The Conservation President”, must surely have thought so too when introduced to the valley by Muir, for he returned home to guide its proclamation as a National Park through Congress

   

In 1868 the Yosemite handbook declared ‘the summit of Half Dome will never be trodden by human foot’. This, of course, was seen by rock-climbers as an irresistible challenge and, only seven years later, the first ascent was completed by George Anderson. Since then the sheer granite cliffs of Yosemite such as Half Dome and the sheer 1090 metre walls of El Capitan have attracted the world’s best climbers and transported the sport of climbing into a new realm. Each day we were able, with the aid of binoculars, to see the ant-like figures of climbers on multi-day ascents of both. However, for those lacking the skill (or perhaps the courage) of these climbers it is now possible for adventurous walkers to ascend Half Dome with the assistance of fixed cables.

From our campsite at Upper Pines a short (2km) fairly strenuous climb involving some 600 very steep steps leads to the 96metre Vernal Falls while a further 600 metres brings a great view of the even higher – 180 metres - Nevada Falls. Both are located on the Merced River as it cascades head-long down the precipitous granite gorge towards the Yosemite Valley below. At this time of the year both are but narrow veils of sparkling water droplets but in late spring and early summer both can be raging torrents up to 30 metres wide and fill the gorge below with clouds of mist. 

Just above Vernal falls is Emerald Pool where the river pauses for a moment before plunging over the edge. Signs here warn visitors not to enter the water but unfortunately not all take heed and a number have been swept to their deaths across the glacier polished granite and over the precipice.

We walk to Mirror Lake which is fast becoming ‘Mirror Meadow’. In late winter and early spring a shallow lake still forms which apparently affords beautiful reflections of the surrounding peaks, including Half Dome.  At this time of the year, however, it is very much in meadow mode with broad expanses of river gravel and dry grasses with a few small patches of green in the Tenaya Creek  bed. We are left to reflect on what it must have looked like in the 1870s when one could stay in an hotel by the lake and enjoy not only the reflections but also boating. As time went on this required the annual removal of increasing amounts of gravel - a practice that has since been discontinued so that nature can continue its work.

Our plans for further walking are abandoned in favour of enjoying two great Yosemite videos in the visitor centre theatre, soaking up the atmosphere around the village and ‘just being’ as Elaine puts it. We spend over an hour at Sentinal Bridge watching the subtly changing colours of Half Dome as the sun sets behind us and are reminded of similar sunsets at Uluru.

A complete change of scene takes us along the Tioga Road on a long climb to around 2500 metres and the High Sierra of Yosemite. Glacier sculpted and smoothed granite domes, craggy peaks sufficiently tall to escape the ravages of the ice, spacious alpine meadows, glacial lakes and trees growing out of seemingly solid rock characterise this area.

 Broad glaciated pavements liberally scattered with “erratic” boulders left behind by the retreating ice extend down the Tenaya Creek valley towards a distant Half Dome from Olmstead Point. Local wildlife such as pikas, adapted to life in the high country’s cool conditions, are being forced inexorably higher as the climate warms. Where will they go when they run out of mountain?

That’s a question that we can’t answer. But we can answer the question as to where we will go at the end of the day. We must unfortunately leave Yosemite as all the campsites along Tioga Road are closed – the last one the day before we arrived. So, sadly, our National Park odyssey has come to an end and we begin our journey back to San Francisco and home.