Yellowstone National Park

Yellowstone NP:

Much of Yellowstone National Park lies within a massive volcanic caldera measuring

approximately 72 km long and 48 km wide - one of the largest in the world and containing the world's most extensive collection of active geothermal features. The caldera is the result of three massive volcanic eruptions, the first some two million years ago, the second around 1.3 million years ago and the most recent 640,000 years ago. The latest eruption spewed out 240 cubic miles of debris after which the entire feature collapsed to create the present caldera. The magmatic heat powering those eruptions still powers the park's geysers, hot springs, fumaroles and mud pots, the sight of which prompts a quick bit of mental maths which suggests that the next ‘event’ is somewhat overdue!
 

(This had been pointed out by our son, Andrew, before we left home… pleased to say we are still waiting!)

Subsequent lava flows, earthquakes and the action of water and wind have added the finer details to the current landscape which mostly stands at over 2000 metres.

Madison Campground, from which we explore the north-western sections of the park, is our base for the first four nights. In spite of some unseasonably cold, wet weather the park is still very busy as the holiday season in the US traditionally doesn't finish until the Labour Day weekend - still some ten days away.

The Park is perhaps best known for its myriad of geothermal features - some 10,000 in all - with the famous Old Faithful geyser still the Park's most popular attraction. Having

witnessed two eruptions - each along with a thousand or so other enthralled visitors - it's easy to see why. But wait! There's more to Old Faithful than the geyser. A network of trails and walkways allows visitors to view at close quarters an array of hot springs, fumeroles, mud pots, terraces and many smaller geysers which are much less reliable than Old Faithful.

The drive from Madison to Old Faithful village gives access to a range of quite spectacular geothermal areas while the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs and the Artist's Paintpots also stand out. We walk three-and-a-half kilometres to the Lone Star Geyser…with only nine other people, we witness two eruptions – no jostling for position here!

Two major rivers, the Yellowstone and the Madison, along with their many tributaries and associated cascades and waterfalls, are also a major attraction to sightseers, fisherpersons and water-sports enthusiasts alike. The Yellowstone, through the actions of the Upper Falls (40m) and Lower Falls (90m) has exposed much of the geological history of the area in carving the 'Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone' deep into the bedrock. Spectacular, multi-coloured walls and pillars reveal millions of years of activity. We visit each of the many viewpoints on both sides of the canyon and are in awe of the power of the river and spellbound by the beauty and majesty of the vista. Along with the streams, Yellowstone Lake, and the numerous other smaller lakes and glacial tarns are a focus of attraction as well as important wetland habitat.

About sixty per cent of the park is covered by forest (mostly Lodgepole pine) which, along with grasslands, ranging from near-desert in the north to subalpine on the higher peaks (up to 3,500 metres) and the various wetlands, provide a rich and varied habitat for a wide range of birds and animals. Elk, moose, bison, mule deer, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, wolves and coyotes are common but elusive, and bears, both grizzly and black, are also sometimes encountered. We are constantly reminded of the potential dangers presented by

the larger animals and provided with sound advice on how to best avoid a confrontation with one of them. At campsites all food, cooking utensils and other scented products such as toothpaste must be stored in either a hard-walled vehicle or one of the bear-proof cabinets dotted around the campgrounds.  Failure to comply leads to the confiscation of the goods and even prosecution. On back-country trails in particular, hikers are advised to carry bear repellent spray (a form of capsicum spray) and, should all other precautions fail, use it!  If the bear keeps coming, play dead and hope for the best!!

The Gift Shops are making hay with the sale of Bear Bells…not for the bear to wear, but for hikers to carry to warn the bear of their approach.  The jury is out as to whether this actually does ‘repel’ the bear, or maybe acts as a call to dinner! 

Along with a number of other visitors, many of whom have visited before, we are a little disappointed with the relative scarcity of animal sightings but we are fortunate to encounter many bison and a number of elk and mule deer while red squirrels, chipmunks and golden mantled ground squirrels abound. Birds provide more common sightings, among them osprey, bald eagles, trumpeter swans, Canada geese, ravens, mountain bluebirds and several sparrow species. While at our southern campsite at Grant Village, on the shores of Yellowstone Lake, we are entertained by a group of three otters enjoying the late afternoon sun, and a muskrat diligently towing water weeds back to its den.

A few years ago, on August 25th, a huge, early, snowstorm isolated much of the National Park and marooned many visitors.  Not to waste an opportunity, staff organised a 'Christmas in August' celebration. compete with tree, Santa, and all the trimmings.  Each year since, Christmas has been celebrated in Yellowstone on August 25th.  Christmas dinner is served in restaurants and hotels and Santa makes the rounds of the camping grounds on the back of a pick up truck, complete with carol singers, and of course, a bag of treats for the kids. 

 All in all, Yellowstone has more than lived up to our expectations, the park staff have been very helpful and other visitors most friendly making our eight day sojourn a thoroughly enjoyable, relaxing and memorable experience.

After less than 2 weeks, road-works are becoming a common theme. One local fellow traveller explained that there are four seasons in this part of the US – Fall, Winter, Spring and ‘Construction.’  Fortunately we will be moving south before September 1st as, on that date, the access roads from both the north and south entries to the National Park will be closed for the rest of the season “for construction” which would have involved a long detour for us to get to the Grand Tetons.

Flickr photos are in two albums.
Yellowstone NW

https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157647417646282/
and Yellowstone SE
https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157647561650775/

Great Basin NP and the Road to Yellowstone

Great Basin NP and the Road to Yellowstone:

Following an uneventful flight from Toronto to San Francisco, we arrive at our 'hotel' - in fact a motel reminiscent of those seen in early fifties American ‘Cops and Robbers’ movies and bearing little resemblance to the website description, but quite adequate for one night.

The following day we are delivered to the Road Bear RV depot by courtesy bus for a comprehensive, if somewhat hurried - questions not really encouraged - introduction to our home for the next ten weeks. It is one of the latest models with a SLIDE OUT in the living area, a quite roomy bathroom, fridge/freezer, microwave and plenty of storage space, including a wardrobe. Quite luxurious!!!

After stocking up on food at a nearby supermarket we have our first encounter with 'Tom' the GPS. We select 'shortest route' to get out of the city and onto the motorway. It may well have been the shortest in distance, but after a very interesting tour of the back streets of suburban San Francisco, we duly arrive at the motorway an hour or so later than had we chosen 'quickest route'. This unfortunately placed us right in the middle of peak hour traffic - six or seven lanes of stop/start mayhem. This eventually clears and the open road lies ahead.

Route 50 - "the loneliest road in America," leads to the Great Basin National Park - the least well known and least visited park in the country. The road surface is excellent and the traffic light making for relaxed driving. The route traverses range after range of craggy, north-south aligned ranges interspersed with broad, flat saltbush plains with occasional herds of cattle, the odd ranch, a wind farm or two and signs of long-past mining activities here and there.

One of the few towns along the way is Austin, a real gem of an oasis in this arid landscape and a great place for lunch in a green and shady little park.

The Great Basin NP is centred on Mt Wheeler which, at just under 4000 metres, is the highest peak in the area. Along with its adjacent peaks, Mt Wheeler is described as "...a high-elevation archipelago of islands of cooler air and more abundant water. Richly varied plants and animals live up there that could not survive in the lower desert." Such plants include the Bristlecone Pine which can grow to 3000 years or more on the rocky higher slopes – reminiscent of the King Billy Pine in Tasmania.

We purchase our America The Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass - $80 and we can come and go with impunity to any National Park, National Monument or Federal Recreation Area.  A bargain considering that each individual Park Pass costs $20-$25.

 A short walk takes us t through stands of pine, spruce and aspen to the small glacial lakes of Stella and Teresa and introduces us to some of the local inhabitants - chipmunks, golden mantled ground squirrels and mule deer. Gathering storm clouds and plummeting temperatures herald an oncoming thunderstorm which, by morning, leaves a thin mantle of snow on the higher crags.

Unfortunately time does not permit a visit to the underground world of Lehmann Caves beneath the flanks of the Snake Range as we still have almost 960 kilometres to cover to reach Yellowstone.

Our journey northward takes us through the seemingly endless metropolis of Salt Lake City where we have to divert for repairs to a broken latch on one of the drawers in the RV. In spite of petrol usually being less than $4.00 US per gallon, it still hurts a little to find that $100 doesn't quite half fill the tank which then seems to empty despairingly quickly.

Having started in California seven days ago and traversed Nevada, Utah, Idaho and Montana (briefly), it is a relief to at last arrive in West Yellowstone and cross the Wyoming border into Yellowstone National Park.

Our overnight stay in Idaho Falls is at the Snake River RV Park…pancakes and coffee for breakfast and the gift of a stuffed snake to “make sure of our safety as we travel.”  Wombat has a mate!

Flickr link:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157647001878807/

Hudson Bay

Seas settle down overnight but the wind still makes it unsafe for a zodiac

landing on Coates Island.  There’s 
also a bear in there!  A zodiac cruise is proposed, but in a very short time the seas chop up again and we motor on to Walrus Island where the ‘locals’ are conveniently lounging about on a haul-out not far from where the ship is able to anchor, and we are able to take a zodiac cruise.  Not only fantastic walrus watching, but a peregrine falcon nest, with resident fluffy chick, sits high on the cliff.  A very vocal adult stands guard.

While heading to Southampton Island and the appropriately named Cape Low, we visit the Sea Explorer’s Bridge, which is open to passengers at any time unless manoeuvres are underway, such as approach to port, zodiac launching, searching for anchorage, etc.  A quiet but very amiable Officer of the Deck provides answers to our questions…no doubt he has answered the same ones many times on this and other voyages, but is patient and informative.

An early dinner precedes a zodiac landing on Cape Low.  Kayakers are dressed to go, but cross winds make the kayak tow into safe waters unworkable, so it’s back to civvies and walking with the peasants.  The zodiac journey is about 3.6kms - quite a way in bumpy seas – and this area has never been visited by any expedition staff, so there is excitement all round.  We are not a large party as many folk decide not to take up the challenge of some uncertainty, and, as expected, there is really nothing but stones, causing Colin, our geologist, to be transported!!  Many fossils are found, along with a few birds, a stone in the shape of Australia, and we stay on shore for a brilliant sunset before a fast approaching tide hastens a twilight return to the ship…it’s 11.00pm.

We later learn that no soundings were available at Cape Low for a safe anchorage, but Captain, OUR Captain, takes his ship to a depth of 7 metres before dropping anchor…that’s SEVEN METRES under the keel!!  What an adventure we are having!

What turns out to be our final zodiac landing is on Marble Island.  We watch the scouting party bump and surf their way to shore before returning to give the green light.  Kayaks make their way to a sheltered lagoon loaded on 2 zodiacs, paddlers ride separately.  Hikers follow to a calm landing in the same lagoon and are greeted by Beluga whale bones and evidence of a graveyard…no real evidence to suggest what happened here - maybe a settlement, maybe a whaler camp, maybe… …

As we reach the top of a small rise, we find several small lakes, each playing

host to water birds – possibly Loons?  We make our way across the spongy turf towards the huge marble deposits, via a meadow of many different flowers.  The soil has been ‘washed’ into concentrated areas by rain and melt water so root systems can develop, giving support to small shrubs like the Northern Willow. 

From a distance, the marble looks ‘dirty’ but on closer inspection, there are mosses and lichens adhering to the surface and the marble is in fact pure white.  This marble is brittle in nature, due to less compression than its Italian cousin, and is therefore more difficult to work.  Hence, no mining has taken place although some local artisans use it for small carvings.

Less than favourable sea conditions make this ‘return to the Mother ship’ probably our most exciting…several docking attempts and finally a (hopefully!) well-timed leap in the general direction to be gathered in by waiting crew. 

For more photos click on the following linkhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157646254961139/ 

The End is Nigh!

The search for one last hurrah in the form of a zodiac cruise is being undertaken.  Sea conditions around Walrus Island (2) are found to be unsuitable…and there are no walrus and only one distant polar bear to be found by the advance party.  The search continues during lunch and finally Morso Island – a series of rocky outcrops with many suitable walrus haul-outs, sadly none being used today.  We cruise hither and yon with lots of birds for company, both on the water and in the air.  Kelp drifts around the craft and shallow water is also a hazard, requiring ‘ahoy, me hearty!’ lookouts on all sides of the zodiac.  John kayaks along a sheltered stretch inside a small lagoon – only 5 paddlers and Val, their intrepid leader, paddling today.

The Polar Plunge, a much vaunted activity of Polar cruises, takes place on our return to the ship.  10 hardy souls, encouraged by their shipmates, make the plunge into the icy waters off the marina at the back of the ship.  All surface smiling to the plaudits of their admiring audience.

Now we are up to the Captain’s Farewell Cocktails, with a chocolate theme!  This is followed by the Grand Farewell Dinner – 7 courses and coffee!!  The Captain makes a grand speech, paying tribute to his crew, and to Thomas, the ‘Hotel’ manager, and his staff.  This is greeted with much applause.  While we don’t see a lot of the ship’s crew -obviously they have jobs to do in places that don’t make for casual visitation - their preparation for our zodiac expeditions and attention at the marina when we leave and return is much appreciated, to say nothing of the fact that they keep the ship running! The ‘Hotel” staff, including chefs, dining room staff, bar and lounge staff, the housekeepers, the girls at Reception…all go out of their way to make our journey certainly one to remember.

Stagger off to bed only to be roused sometime later to go on deck to view a weak, but very real, Aurora Borealis. Sadly, fading quickly, but a very appropriate way to end a Polar Expedition.

We have our docking and disembarkation orders, but these are interrupted by the Beluga whales and their calves frolicking in Churchill Bay as we dock.  A hastily arranged zodiac cruise is called, and we are out among them!  Sam, our bird expert from Tasmania, is our zodiac driver for this amazing experience.  He takes us well out into the inlet to get the very best views of these magnificent white creatures and their light grey calves as they surface and dive around, beside and under the zodiacs.  Photos are not easy to organise, but who cares?  They are here and so are we!!

At last it all must end…our buses are waiting on the dock and so to the airport for our charter flight to Toronto.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157646254961139/

Some ponderings:

How do you plan an itinerary for an excursion into a region as unpredictable as the Arctic and expect to have it run according to that plan?  It probably can’t be done, and so it was that, with our sense of adventure finely tuned to expect the unexpected, we embarked upon an adventure that turned out to be as unpredictable as we hoped.

Our ship was a well-oiled machine – no pun intended – from the engine room to the bridge and everywhere in between.  No stone was left unturned in the quest to make our experience the best it could be.

The Expedition Staff, magnificently led by Canadian Alex McNeil, lectured, advised, informed, led, educated, protected, transported, entertained and befriended all aboard.  While none claimed to know it all, between them there wasn’t a lot they couldn’t work out.  And multi-tasking took on a new meaning…this group had it ALL under control. 

Our Russian Captain, Hotel Manager, the amiable Thomas, Maître D’, Glenn, Purser Karen – what a team they led!  By the second day, waiters knew our preferences; reception and housekeepers were calling us by name;  crew were welcoming us back on board after zodiac excursions, not only with a ‘hand across the sea’ to bring us safely back onto the marina, but with a smile and sometimes a wink!

On looking back through the “planned” program and then at what actually happened, nothing seemed to phase this entire operation  – an activity couldn’t go ahead?... not to worry, someone will pop in with a lecture, the Captain will turn the ship around and we’ll go back later, the chefs will do an early lunch while the sea calms down.  Maybe this is what happens on all such expedition-type ‘cruises,’ but if there are any better than this, I’d love to be on board!

HIGHLIGHT:  Our new friends:  Jenni and Bruce from Perth;  Lilli and Ian from Bateman’s Bay;  Brian from Scotland;  Vicki from New Zealand;  Erik from Netherlands;  Steve from Sydney (John’s kayak partner), Ruthi and Eddie from Israel;  Chuck, Expedition Doc, and his mate Rick from the US;  Rommel, our special waiter and Helen, our lovely housekeeper;  

Problem 1:  it has sent us back to the brochures to see what else Quark and/or Peregrine might have in store for prospective travellers. 

Problem 2:  Anyone know where and how one makes contact (legally) with a lot of money whilst one is in a fit state to spend it?

Hudson Strait Environs

Eric Cove is the site of a depot of the Hudson Bay Company and some indications of a community settlement close to the ‘harbour’ are obvious, including a cemetery.  John (‘fast medium’ walker today) decides to change his Muck boots for his walking boots…Mmmm.  A young caribou is grazing in the river valley and likes the look of John’s group, ‘accompanying’ them for some distance before wandering off to greener pastures.  The boot decision proves to be something of a problem when the need arises to cross the main stream a couple of times…completed barefoot, “Tassie style,” much to the amusement of the group.  My ‘slow mediums’ enjoy a very pleasant stroll along the river valley, ending with a climb to a high point to take in the overall perspective of the river/glacier valley, with snow drifts still in the more protected valleys.

A planned visit to Cape Wolstenholme (Quebec) is aborted due to fog, no soundings for anchorage, with danger of drifting, and no wildlife found by the advance party.  Instead, we moor off Digges Island and Laurie, our historian, traces the search for the North-West Passage by Sir John Franklin’s expeditions.  And we have time to put the finishing touches on our headwear for the “Crazy Hat’ ‘al fresco’ dinner tonight, to be held on the upper deck…I wear a bowl of fruit and John sews corks around his Aussie hat!   Unfortunately the weather is unkind and, after a delicious dinner, we are forced indoors.

Overnight in the harbour off Digges Island in Hudson Strait, part of the Canadian Arctic Archipelago.  25 knot winds from the SW this morning, overcast, and the whitecaps are playing around the ship; a planned kayak adventure is cancelled.  We make a ‘perimeter’ landing on the island…confined to a secure area with fire-armed staff on lookout points.  Because of the rocky terrain, a polar bear can approach unnoticed and therefore  pose a danger. A huge black cloud brings thunder and lightning and dumps heavy rain… John, Brian and I find a small corner out of the wind as a shelter.  Cloud moves on and we are able to explore the remains of Dorset houses as well as photograph the many plants and rocks that provide interest.  A stone bear trap is found – the old “you can get in but can’t get out” trick…very ingenious.

At the beginning of the journey we were provided with a bright yellow waterproof/windproof hooded parka with hood and zip-out fleece liner.  This has proved most useful for zodiac excursions, both cruises and landings and on deck where it can get a bit cool and breezy.  And we get to keep them.  Down-side?  They weigh about 2 kgs and are just a bit bulky.

While we enjoy lunch, our most capable and accommodating Captain takes us back to Cape Wolstenholme for the zodiac cruise we missed earlier…winds now 40 knots so no launch possible.  Instead he takes us as close as possible to the cliffs where Thick-billed Murres, Iceland Gulls and Black Guillemots nest in their thousands.  Wonderful viewing if you don’t mind walking horizontally along the outside decks as the birds fly low over the water, skimming the whitecaps!  The impromptu ‘rock’n’roll’ show that follows is…40-50 knot winds causing the ship to list ~10 degrees to port, making moving around anywhere a little interesting.  Dinner finds many empty chairs…I manage salad before succumbing to the need to be horizontal and go straight to sleep. 

For more photos, including Elaine's crazy hat, click on the following Flickr link. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157646612607596/

Community Visits

Community visits

Clearing Canadian customs is required before we can land on Canadian soil, so today, clutching our passports, we line up to be interviewed and, hopefully be granted entry…not exactly sure what happens to rejectees!  All’s well and we sail into the narrow inlet that leads us to Kimmirut, a community on Baffin Island, rich in Canadian history having been an outpost for both the Hudson Bay Company and the RCMP.  And our first ‘wet’ landing –

Community visit 1…A very warm welcome awaits us …only 3 ships will visit this summer, all “Sea Adventurer” on different itineraries.  A group of local folk are waiting to ‘guide’ us and our guide, Padliuk, is one of 7 or 8 children - there is some confusion in the translation! – but the whole family is active in the community. 

Two supermarkets, both very well stocked,  receive only 2 deliveries of ‘dry’ goods by ship each year due to the harsh and remote nature of the area, but fresh foods come by plane once a week, or so.  We go by the grade school…it is school holidays now and it seems the  total school community is ‘helping’ to guide.  The school has an extra building which is the ‘university’ with only one teacher/tutor, but visiting teachers come as required.  St Paul’s Anglican Church (1909) is the only seat of religion and is apparently well attended, “especially at Christmas.”  

 

A fun session of Northern Games takes place in the school gym, and a performance of Inuit throat singing.  Local artisans show their products, which are for sale, Arctic Shark cooked over hot stones is served with Balik(local bread.)  A harp seal skin is cleaned, using a traditional woman’s knife, a handmade weapon!  Seal skin is still used domestically, e.g. for items of clothing.  Piece de resistance has to be the seal skinning demo, a work of art to say the least, and the tasting of ALL parts of the animal…yes, ALL!!

On our return to the ship, we find that Alex has invited all the local guides to lunch – a very nice touch and typical of the respect that Quark and its staff have for the folk of these remote communities.

The evening programs on board are many and varied – expedition staff relate some of their non-Quark experiences, like driving a tour bus from Helsinki to Beijing (Dave the Irishman) or a voyage to the Antarctic on a very small yacht (Colin the Scot), a movie night WITH POPCORN!, a ‘Welcome to Canada’ dress up event, a Trivia Night, and a CrazyHat competition.

 Highlight (1)…Early morning wakeup call over the PA!!...a huge tabloid  iceberg is spotted  - approx.. 1.8km long and of indeterminate width  & depth.  From high on deck we can see the top is textured with crevasses, but very clean with only minimal dust and debris.  Colin, our glacier man, believes it almost certainly originated in Greenland, most likely the Petermann Glacier  – such a specimen has never been seen in this area by this most experienced expedition staff or crew.

Highlight (2)…same morning, interruption to lecture on Inuit Art…2 bowhead whales spotted ‘blowing’ and exposing their flukes as they dived, resurfacing again and again.

Community Visit 2…Dorset Island and the small community of Cape Dorset, the “home” of Inuit Art, where remains of an ancient Thule settlement were found, dating back to 1000BC.  Once again the community is most welcoming and we are a little surprised to find that the driving force behind tourism is a Finnish lady who married a Dorset man, a fisherman, and together they have built 2 hotels and a beautiful house that doubles as a gallery.  She also organises the tour guides for visiting groups. 

We see artists plying their (arts and) crafts and, of course, have many opportunities to purchase original works, both a t the community hall where the actual artists are selling their works, and also in the shops and galleries.   A little disappointed to find that one artist we spoke to sells a polar bear carving to a gallery owner for $30 who then charges $100. That’s business, I suppose.  

We make a short zodiac crossing to nearby Malik Island for a very stony walk around remains of ancient Thule housing , flowers, mosses and lichens growing on and around rocks of variable colours,  and a very impressive Inukshuk, the Inuit totem, built on the shoreline. 

Once again the local folk are invited to dinner and we have a very entertaining meal with Christina, well-travelled Wendy from Sydney and equally well-travelled Gene and Karen from Toronto.

 

 For more photos go to https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157646610262266/

 

 

Davis Strait and Some Islands

Davis Strait and some Islands

Definition of a zodiac cruise:  an excursion by zodiac where no landing is made.  8-10 people are aboard with an expedition staff member as ‘driver’ and guide. An opportunity to get close to shore to spot wildlife in a safe environment. Great for bird watching.

Definition of a zodiac landing:  an excursion by zodiac where a landing is made, usually ‘wet,’ where the zodiac pulls up as near as possible to the beach, we exit the boat into the water as gracefully as possible and wade to the beach.  For this exercise, we are supplied with ‘Muck’ boots…that’s actually the brand name, and they are really good! Waterproof and insulated (like strong ‘wellies’ that are quite OK for short hikes.)

Davis Strait, a stretch of water not generally known for its particularly gentle nature, is showing great respect for potentially squirmy tummies today as we spend the whole day at sea, at some time entering Canadian waters. The day is devoted to time on deck looking out for whales and seabirds, lectures and discussions on history and culture, birds and photography, a special “at sea” afternoon tea, and personal time which could always include a cuppa and a chat.

24 hour tea/coffee/hot chocolate is on tap and a quiet cuppa while looking out at the early morning sky at sea is a special way to start the day. 

The sea continues to be been kind overnight, gently rocking us to sleep. And we are still sailing when we wake, arriving at Monumental Island during breakfast.  This island is owned by the Canadian Territory of Nunavut, and a safe anchorage must be found.   As this voyage is the first expedition by “Sea Adventurer” for Quark, it is very much a voyage of discovery. Charts are incomplete for some areas we are visiting so zodiacs are sent out as scouts to take soundings and relay them to the ship so safe anchorage can be found. 

Nunavut is the newest of the Canadian provinces, separated from the larger Northwest Territory to form the third northwest province, along with the Yukon and the North West Territory.

This is our first kayak/zodiac cruise.  What a debut!  Two polar bears, a mother and her 2^nd year cub, are ambling down the cliff towards the shore.  They most obligingly ‘pose’ on a snowdrift before moving across onto a rocky area where they are easier to see.  Did someone prepare this earlier??  All zodiacs and kayaks join in the spectacle before wandering off to make more discoveries.  Little did we know that two zodiacs and the kayakers would see another polar bear around the back of the island.

Our shore adventures are all dependent on safety – the ship’s Captain must ensure that the sea conditions are suitable for an anchorage, and along with the expedition staff, must be sure that conditions are safe for a zodiac transfer.  And the expedition staff must also secure the area, particularly where polar bears are likely to be encountered, and that is everywhere…who knows?  Firearm-bearing staff go ashore and scout the area and will remain on alert, sometimes taking high points to look-out, and/or carry arms while guiding walking groups. Four ‘grades’ of walking group choices:  ‘Chargers’ who enjoy the challenge (not for photographers!), ‘Fast Medium’ for quicker walkers but with photographic opportunities, ‘Slow Medium’ for slower walkers who have a chance to take in the sights as well as take photos, and the ‘Contemplative’ group who either don’t really want to walk much, can’t tackle the high ground, or just want to “be.”

As we prepare to cruise by zodiac around Akpatok Island, south of Baffin island, a polar bear with cub is spotted but lost, so our cruise focuses on the bird life on the sheer limestone cliffs.  Thick Billed Murres nest here but far above the narrow beach and difficult to see.  Guillemots are plentiful and accompany us both on the water and in the air as we return to the ship via a large iceberg floating some way off.  The intense blue of the water trapped in the cracks is stunning!  After dinner another zodiac cruise finds a polar bear swimming towards one of our boats, but the crews call the boats away so as not to cause stress to the animal.  While bird watching along the northern end of the island, yet another polar bear is spotted, this time a mother with two 1^st year cubs moving along the base of a cliff on a very narrow beach.  We shadow them for a while but leave them be as the cubs are obviously tiring.

Dinner is a great time aboard.  No seating plan can mean a different set of companions at each meal and is one of the wonderful things about this journey.  The menu is always a joy as well and tonight we revisit our first wildlife sighting of the expedition – the Musk Ox.  Except tonight we are eating him, and delicious he is, too!

For more photos go to https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157646610262266/

 

 

Greenland

Greenland

Up anchor and away!  Our first port of call is Sisimiut, Greenland’s second largest settlement.  Our small group walking tour takes us by brightly coloured houses and the usual shops and services you would expect to find.  The friendliness of the locals gives it the feel of a small fishing village, and the 18th century colonial buildings, now housing galleries, museums and artisans workshops, maintain the history and culture of the country.  Prices are very expensive as most things come from Denmark…nothing is manufactured in Greenland.  A small Greenland flag cost 150DKK (Danish Kroner) or $US29.  (I usually pay $US2-5 for these souvenirs.)  Did I buy it?  Of course I did!!

While many folk now use snowmobiles as transport, some still retain the traditional sled for transfer of goods, and some for recreation - weekend camping and hunting trips and visits to Grandma across the frozen lake.  Dogs are kept strictly as working dogs, chained up during the summer.  They are very aggressive and are certainly not pets.   Sisimiut is also the home of Royal Greenland cannery.  Of interest are the children…as well as schools, there are 23 day-care facilities!  And a very active kayak club retains the art of kayak making – each member makes their own kayak using traditional methods, and where possible, traditional materials, although canvas has largely replaced seal skin.

As we prepare to sail from Sisimiut, we are treated to a demonstration of about 20 different techniques of eskimo rolling by a local hunter in a traditional self-made timber and canvas kayak and wearing a ‘drysuit’ of seal skin.

Our next port of call is Ilulissat.  When we go on deck at 6.30am, there is a slight wind and it is 6C. There are some icebergs around and a small whale is spotted.  We go ashore in the rain – some on a long walk, others to the Museum for a comprehensive social history of settlement before undertaking a shorter walk. Among other things, this walk visits some ‘graveyards’ of early cultures, where remains were buried above ground, layer upon layer.  The bones of the Saqqaq people are still obvious. Thick mist spoils the view of icebergs cluttering up the entrance to Disko Bay.  These are calvings from the Sermeq Kujalleq glacier some 20+ kms away, one of the fastest and most active glaciers in the world.  The ice breaks away quickly, some get grounded on a shallow bar at the entrance to the fjord, they jostle for position banging and scraping, hence the “log-jamb.”

John has opted to join the kayaking group… unfortunately both the kayaking and zodiac cruising cannot go ahead after dinner tonight because of thick fog;   the ship’s progress is also slowed because of icebergs as we sail out of Disko Bay and into Davis Strait.
More photos available on https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/14921979382/in/set-72157646163237338

 

Welcome to Travel 2014

Welcome to Travel 2014

2014 sees us doing something a little out of the ordinary – for us.  We are taking a cruise…not your super-size-2-swimming-pools-movies-and –dancing-cruise.  Rather an expedition cruise to Polar Regions, followed by our very first visit to North America.

We begin  in Copenhagen, Denmark, spending a few days reacquainting ourselves with this beautiful city and also with Elaine’s distant cousin, Flemming and his wife Kirsten who treat us to a great day of wandering around the city and environs like locals.

The Copenhagen Airport Hilton is where we meet our 86 shipmates and Quark Expeditions staff before we fly to Kangerlussuaq in Greenland where  trucks wait on the tarmac to drive us about 23 miles along the glaciated valley to see the famous polar ice-cap. As we watch, a rumbling sound heralds yet another fracture in this fast-receding face.  A remnant of the ice-age, it is still about 3 km thick at the centre, but the experts believe that if it was to melt, it could raise the level of the world’s oceans by about 2 metres.  Our first wildlife sighting is a musk ox…remember for later!!

Our ship, “Sea Adventurer,” waits off shore and a zodiac transfer is required – the first of many. We receive a hearty welcome from the ship’s crew and ‘hotel’ staff, and most of us find that our cabins are a little more sumptuous than expected.  No sitting-down-while-having-a-shower-and-cleaning-your-teeth bathroom here!   And a king-size bed!

The Quark Expeditions team is very capably led by Canadian Alex McNeil…it includes an expedition co-ordinator, a naturalist, an ornithologist, a geologist/glaciologist, an historian, a botanist, a marine biologist, a kayak leader, a logistics manager, a photography advisor, as well as several other guide/zodiac drivers.…Canadian, Australian, Scottish, French, English, American and Inuit.

Passenger nationalities are just as diverse…Australia, USA, Canada, Scotland, France, Israel, Netherlands, and a large group from China.