Hudson Bay

Seas settle down overnight but the wind still makes it unsafe for a zodiac

landing on Coates Island.  There’s 
also a bear in there!  A zodiac cruise is proposed, but in a very short time the seas chop up again and we motor on to Walrus Island where the ‘locals’ are conveniently lounging about on a haul-out not far from where the ship is able to anchor, and we are able to take a zodiac cruise.  Not only fantastic walrus watching, but a peregrine falcon nest, with resident fluffy chick, sits high on the cliff.  A very vocal adult stands guard.

While heading to Southampton Island and the appropriately named Cape Low, we visit the Sea Explorer’s Bridge, which is open to passengers at any time unless manoeuvres are underway, such as approach to port, zodiac launching, searching for anchorage, etc.  A quiet but very amiable Officer of the Deck provides answers to our questions…no doubt he has answered the same ones many times on this and other voyages, but is patient and informative.

An early dinner precedes a zodiac landing on Cape Low.  Kayakers are dressed to go, but cross winds make the kayak tow into safe waters unworkable, so it’s back to civvies and walking with the peasants.  The zodiac journey is about 3.6kms - quite a way in bumpy seas – and this area has never been visited by any expedition staff, so there is excitement all round.  We are not a large party as many folk decide not to take up the challenge of some uncertainty, and, as expected, there is really nothing but stones, causing Colin, our geologist, to be transported!!  Many fossils are found, along with a few birds, a stone in the shape of Australia, and we stay on shore for a brilliant sunset before a fast approaching tide hastens a twilight return to the ship…it’s 11.00pm.

We later learn that no soundings were available at Cape Low for a safe anchorage, but Captain, OUR Captain, takes his ship to a depth of 7 metres before dropping anchor…that’s SEVEN METRES under the keel!!  What an adventure we are having!

What turns out to be our final zodiac landing is on Marble Island.  We watch the scouting party bump and surf their way to shore before returning to give the green light.  Kayaks make their way to a sheltered lagoon loaded on 2 zodiacs, paddlers ride separately.  Hikers follow to a calm landing in the same lagoon and are greeted by Beluga whale bones and evidence of a graveyard…no real evidence to suggest what happened here - maybe a settlement, maybe a whaler camp, maybe… …

As we reach the top of a small rise, we find several small lakes, each playing

host to water birds – possibly Loons?  We make our way across the spongy turf towards the huge marble deposits, via a meadow of many different flowers.  The soil has been ‘washed’ into concentrated areas by rain and melt water so root systems can develop, giving support to small shrubs like the Northern Willow. 

From a distance, the marble looks ‘dirty’ but on closer inspection, there are mosses and lichens adhering to the surface and the marble is in fact pure white.  This marble is brittle in nature, due to less compression than its Italian cousin, and is therefore more difficult to work.  Hence, no mining has taken place although some local artisans use it for small carvings.

Less than favourable sea conditions make this ‘return to the Mother ship’ probably our most exciting…several docking attempts and finally a (hopefully!) well-timed leap in the general direction to be gathered in by waiting crew. 

For more photos click on the following linkhttps://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157646254961139/