Saturday, September 27, 2014

Yellowstone National Park


Yellowstone NP:

Much of Yellowstone National Park lies within a massive volcanic caldera measuring
approximately 72 km long and 48 km wide - one of the largest in the world and containing the world's most extensive collection of active geothermal features. The caldera is the result of three massive volcanic eruptions, the first some two million years ago, the second around 1.3 million years ago and the most recent 640,000 years ago. The latest eruption spewed out 240 cubic miles of debris after which the entire feature collapsed to create the present caldera. The magmatic heat powering those eruptions still powers the park's geysers, hot springs, fumaroles and mud pots, the sight of which prompts a quick bit of mental maths which suggests that the next ‘event’ is somewhat overdue!
 
(This had been pointed out by our son, Andrew, before we left home… pleased to say we are still waiting!)

Subsequent lava flows, earthquakes and the action of water and wind have added the finer details to the current landscape which mostly stands at over 2000 metres.
Madison Campground, from which we explore the north-western sections of the park, is our base for the first four nights. In spite of some unseasonably cold, wet weather the park is still very busy as the holiday season in the US traditionally doesn't finish until the Labour Day weekend - still some ten days away.
The Park is perhaps best known for its myriad of geothermal features - some 10,000 in all - with the famous Old Faithful geyser still the Park's most popular attraction. Having
witnessed two eruptions - each along with a thousand or so other enthralled visitors - it's easy to see why. But wait! There's more to Old Faithful than the geyser. A network of trails and walkways allows visitors to view at close quarters an array of hot springs, fumeroles, mud pots, terraces and many smaller geysers which are much less reliable than Old Faithful.
The drive from Madison to Old Faithful village gives access to a range of quite spectacular geothermal areas while the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs and the Artist's Paintpots also stand out. We walk three-and-a-half kilometres to the Lone Star Geyser…with only nine other people, we witness two eruptions – no jostling for position here!
Two major rivers, the Yellowstone and the Madison, along with their many tributaries and associated cascades and waterfalls, are also a major attraction to sightseers, fisherpersons and water-sports enthusiasts alike. The Yellowstone, through the actions of the Upper Falls (40m) and Lower Falls (90m) has exposed much of the geological history of the area in carving the 'Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone' deep into the bedrock. Spectacular, multi-coloured walls and pillars reveal millions of years of activity. We visit each of the many viewpoints on both sides of the canyon and are in awe of the power of the river and spellbound by the beauty and majesty of the vista. Along with the streams, Yellowstone Lake, and the numerous other smaller lakes and glacial tarns are a focus of attraction as well as important wetland habitat.
About sixty per cent of the park is covered by forest (mostly Lodgepole pine) which, along with grasslands, ranging from near-desert in the north to subalpine on the higher peaks (up to 3,500 metres) and the various wetlands, provide a rich and varied habitat for a wide range of birds and animals. Elk, moose, bison, mule deer, bighorn sheep, pronghorn, wolves and coyotes are common but elusive, and bears, both grizzly and black, are also sometimes encountered. We are constantly reminded of the potential dangers presented by
the larger animals and provided with sound advice on how to best avoid a confrontation with one of them. At campsites all food, cooking utensils and other scented products such as toothpaste must be stored in either a hard-walled vehicle or one of the bear-proof cabinets dotted around the campgrounds.  Failure to comply leads to the confiscation of the goods and even prosecution. On back-country trails in particular, hikers are advised to carry bear repellent spray (a form of capsicum spray) and, should all other precautions fail, use it!  If the bear keeps coming, play dead and hope for the best!!


The Gift Shops are making hay with the sale of Bear Bells…not for the bear to wear, but for hikers to carry to warn the bear of their approach.  The jury is out as to whether this actually does ‘repel’ the bear, or maybe acts as a call to dinner! 

Along with a number of other visitors, many of whom have visited before, we are a little disappointed with the relative scarcity of animal sightings but we are fortunate to encounter many bison and a number of elk and mule deer while red squirrels, chipmunks and golden mantled ground squirrels abound. Birds provide more common sightings, among them osprey, bald eagles, trumpeter swans, Canada geese, ravens, mountain bluebirds and several sparrow species. While at our southern campsite at Grant Village, on the shores of Yellowstone Lake, we are entertained by a group of three otters enjoying the late afternoon sun, and a muskrat diligently towing water weeds back to its den.

A few years ago, on August 25th, a huge, early, snowstorm isolated much of the National Park and marooned many visitors.  Not to waste an opportunity, staff organised a 'Christmas in August' celebration. compete with tree, Santa, and all the trimmings.  Each year since, Christmas has been celebrated in Yellowstone on August 25th.  Christmas dinner is served in restaurants and hotels and Santa makes the rounds of the camping grounds on the back of a pick up truck, complete with carol singers, and of course, a bag of treats for the kids. 

 All in all, Yellowstone has more than lived up to our expectations, the park staff have been very helpful and other visitors most friendly making our eight day sojourn a thoroughly enjoyable, relaxing and memorable experience.

After less than 2 weeks, road-works are becoming a common theme. One local fellow traveller explained that there are four seasons in this part of the US – Fall, Winter, Spring and ‘Construction.’  Fortunately we will be moving south before September 1st as, on that date, the access roads from both the north and south entries to the National Park will be closed for the rest of the season “for construction” which would have involved a long detour for us to get to the Grand Tetons.

Flickr photos are in two albums.
Yellowstone NW
https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157647417646282/
and Yellowstone SE
https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157647561650775/

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