Yellowstone NP:
Much of
Yellowstone National Park lies within a massive volcanic caldera measuring
approximately 72 km long and 48 km wide - one of the largest in the world and
containing the world's most extensive collection of active geothermal features.
The caldera is the result of three massive volcanic eruptions, the first some
two million years ago, the second around 1.3 million years ago and the most
recent 640,000 years ago. The latest eruption spewed out 240 cubic miles of
debris after which the entire feature collapsed to create the present caldera.
The magmatic heat powering those eruptions still powers the park's geysers, hot
springs, fumaroles and mud pots, the sight of which prompts a quick bit of
mental maths which suggests that the next ‘event’ is somewhat overdue!
(This had been pointed out by our
son, Andrew, before we left home… pleased to say we are still waiting!)
Subsequent
lava flows, earthquakes and the action of water and wind have added the finer
details to the current landscape which mostly stands at over 2000 metres.
Madison Campground,
from which we explore the north-western sections of the park, is our base for
the first four nights. In spite of some unseasonably cold, wet weather the park
is still very busy as the holiday season in the US traditionally doesn't finish
until the Labour Day weekend - still some ten days away.
The Park is
perhaps best known for its myriad of geothermal features - some 10,000 in all -
with the famous Old Faithful geyser still the Park's most popular attraction.
Having
witnessed two eruptions - each along with a thousand or so other
enthralled visitors - it's easy to see why. But wait! There's more to Old
Faithful than the geyser. A network of trails and walkways allows visitors to
view at close quarters an array of hot springs, fumeroles, mud pots, terraces
and many smaller geysers which are much less reliable than Old Faithful.
The drive
from Madison to Old Faithful village gives access to a range of quite spectacular
geothermal areas while the terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs and the Artist's
Paintpots also stand out. We walk three-and-a-half kilometres to the Lone Star
Geyser…with only nine other people, we witness two eruptions – no jostling for
position here!
Two major
rivers, the Yellowstone and the Madison, along with their many tributaries and
associated cascades and waterfalls, are also a major attraction to sightseers,
fisherpersons and water-sports enthusiasts alike. The Yellowstone, through the
actions of the Upper Falls (40m) and Lower Falls (90m) has exposed much of the
geological history of the area in carving the 'Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone'
deep into the bedrock. Spectacular, multi-coloured walls and pillars reveal
millions of years of activity. We visit each of the many viewpoints on both
sides of the canyon and are in awe of the power of the river and spellbound by
the beauty and majesty of the vista. Along with the streams, Yellowstone Lake,
and the numerous other smaller lakes and glacial tarns are a focus of attraction
as well as important wetland habitat.
About sixty per
cent of the park is covered by forest (mostly Lodgepole pine) which, along with
grasslands, ranging from near-desert in the north to subalpine on the higher
peaks (up to 3,500 metres) and the various wetlands, provide a rich and varied
habitat for a wide range of birds and animals. Elk, moose, bison, mule deer,
bighorn sheep, pronghorn, wolves and coyotes are common but elusive, and bears,
both grizzly and black, are also sometimes encountered. We are constantly
reminded of the potential dangers presented by
the larger animals and provided
with sound advice on how to best avoid a confrontation with one of them. At
campsites all food, cooking utensils and other scented products such as
toothpaste must be stored in either a hard-walled vehicle or one of the bear-proof
cabinets dotted around the campgrounds. Failure
to comply leads to the confiscation of the goods and even prosecution. On
back-country trails in particular, hikers are advised to carry bear repellent
spray (a form of capsicum spray) and, should all other precautions fail, use
it! If the bear keeps coming, play dead
and hope for the best!!
The Gift Shops are making hay with
the sale of Bear Bells…not for the bear to wear, but for hikers to carry to
warn the bear of their approach. The
jury is out as to whether this actually does ‘repel’ the bear, or maybe acts as
a call to dinner!
Along with a
number of other visitors, many of whom have visited before, we are a little
disappointed with the relative scarcity of animal sightings but we are
fortunate to encounter many bison and a number of elk and mule deer while red squirrels,
chipmunks and golden mantled ground squirrels abound. Birds provide more common
sightings, among them osprey, bald eagles, trumpeter swans, Canada geese, ravens,
mountain bluebirds and several sparrow species. While at our southern campsite
at Grant Village, on the shores of Yellowstone Lake, we are entertained by a
group of three otters enjoying the late afternoon sun, and a muskrat diligently
towing water weeds back to its den.
A few years ago, on August 25th, a huge, early, snowstorm isolated much of the National Park and marooned many visitors. Not to waste an opportunity, staff organised a 'Christmas in August' celebration. compete with tree, Santa, and all the trimmings. Each year since, Christmas has been celebrated in Yellowstone on August 25th. Christmas dinner is served in restaurants and hotels and Santa makes the rounds of the camping grounds on the back of a pick up truck, complete with carol singers, and of course, a bag of treats for the kids.
All in all, Yellowstone has more than lived up
to our expectations, the park staff have been very helpful and other visitors
most friendly making our eight day sojourn a thoroughly enjoyable, relaxing and
memorable experience.
After less than 2 weeks, road-works
are becoming a common theme. One local fellow traveller explained that there
are four seasons in this part of the US – Fall, Winter, Spring and
‘Construction.’ Fortunately we will be
moving south before September 1st as, on that date, the access roads from both
the north and south entries to the National Park will be closed for the rest of
the season “for construction” which would have involved a long detour for us to
get to the Grand Tetons.
Flickr photos are in two albums.
Yellowstone NW
and Yellowstone SE
https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157647561650775/
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