The End is Nigh!

The search for one last hurrah in the form of a zodiac cruise is being undertaken.  Sea conditions around Walrus Island (2) are found to be unsuitable…and there are no walrus and only one distant polar bear to be found by the advance party.  The search continues during lunch and finally Morso Island – a series of rocky outcrops with many suitable walrus haul-outs, sadly none being used today.  We cruise hither and yon with lots of birds for company, both on the water and in the air.  Kelp drifts around the craft and shallow water is also a hazard, requiring ‘ahoy, me hearty!’ lookouts on all sides of the zodiac.  John kayaks along a sheltered stretch inside a small lagoon – only 5 paddlers and Val, their intrepid leader, paddling today.

The Polar Plunge, a much vaunted activity of Polar cruises, takes place on our return to the ship.  10 hardy souls, encouraged by their shipmates, make the plunge into the icy waters off the marina at the back of the ship.  All surface smiling to the plaudits of their admiring audience.

Now we are up to the Captain’s Farewell Cocktails, with a chocolate theme!  This is followed by the Grand Farewell Dinner – 7 courses and coffee!!  The Captain makes a grand speech, paying tribute to his crew, and to Thomas, the ‘Hotel’ manager, and his staff.  This is greeted with much applause.  While we don’t see a lot of the ship’s crew -obviously they have jobs to do in places that don’t make for casual visitation - their preparation for our zodiac expeditions and attention at the marina when we leave and return is much appreciated, to say nothing of the fact that they keep the ship running! The ‘Hotel” staff, including chefs, dining room staff, bar and lounge staff, the housekeepers, the girls at Reception…all go out of their way to make our journey certainly one to remember.

Stagger off to bed only to be roused sometime later to go on deck to view a weak, but very real, Aurora Borealis. Sadly, fading quickly, but a very appropriate way to end a Polar Expedition.

We have our docking and disembarkation orders, but these are interrupted by the Beluga whales and their calves frolicking in Churchill Bay as we dock.  A hastily arranged zodiac cruise is called, and we are out among them!  Sam, our bird expert from Tasmania, is our zodiac driver for this amazing experience.  He takes us well out into the inlet to get the very best views of these magnificent white creatures and their light grey calves as they surface and dive around, beside and under the zodiacs.  Photos are not easy to organise, but who cares?  They are here and so are we!!

At last it all must end…our buses are waiting on the dock and so to the airport for our charter flight to Toronto.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157646254961139/

Some ponderings:

How do you plan an itinerary for an excursion into a region as unpredictable as the Arctic and expect to have it run according to that plan?  It probably can’t be done, and so it was that, with our sense of adventure finely tuned to expect the unexpected, we embarked upon an adventure that turned out to be as unpredictable as we hoped.

Our ship was a well-oiled machine – no pun intended – from the engine room to the bridge and everywhere in between.  No stone was left unturned in the quest to make our experience the best it could be.

The Expedition Staff, magnificently led by Canadian Alex McNeil, lectured, advised, informed, led, educated, protected, transported, entertained and befriended all aboard.  While none claimed to know it all, between them there wasn’t a lot they couldn’t work out.  And multi-tasking took on a new meaning…this group had it ALL under control. 

Our Russian Captain, Hotel Manager, the amiable Thomas, Maître D’, Glenn, Purser Karen – what a team they led!  By the second day, waiters knew our preferences; reception and housekeepers were calling us by name;  crew were welcoming us back on board after zodiac excursions, not only with a ‘hand across the sea’ to bring us safely back onto the marina, but with a smile and sometimes a wink!

On looking back through the “planned” program and then at what actually happened, nothing seemed to phase this entire operation  – an activity couldn’t go ahead?... not to worry, someone will pop in with a lecture, the Captain will turn the ship around and we’ll go back later, the chefs will do an early lunch while the sea calms down.  Maybe this is what happens on all such expedition-type ‘cruises,’ but if there are any better than this, I’d love to be on board!

HIGHLIGHT:  Our new friends:  Jenni and Bruce from Perth;  Lilli and Ian from Bateman’s Bay;  Brian from Scotland;  Vicki from New Zealand;  Erik from Netherlands;  Steve from Sydney (John’s kayak partner), Ruthi and Eddie from Israel;  Chuck, Expedition Doc, and his mate Rick from the US;  Rommel, our special waiter and Helen, our lovely housekeeper;  

Problem 1:  it has sent us back to the brochures to see what else Quark and/or Peregrine might have in store for prospective travellers. 

Problem 2:  Anyone know where and how one makes contact (legally) with a lot of money whilst one is in a fit state to spend it?