Saturday, September 27, 2014

Great Basin NP and the Road to Yellowstone


Great Basin NP and the Road to Yellowstone:

Following an uneventful flight from Toronto to San Francisco, we arrive at our 'hotel' - in fact a motel reminiscent of those seen in early fifties American ‘Cops and Robbers’ movies and bearing little resemblance to the website description, but quite adequate for one night.
The following day we are delivered to the Road Bear RV depot by courtesy bus for a comprehensive, if somewhat hurried - questions not really encouraged - introduction to our home for the next ten weeks. It is one of the latest models with a SLIDE OUT in the living area, a quite roomy bathroom, fridge/freezer, microwave and plenty of storage space, including a wardrobe. Quite luxurious!!!
After stocking up on food at a nearby supermarket we have our first encounter with 'Tom' the GPS. We select 'shortest route' to get out of the city and onto the motorway. It may well have been the shortest in distance, but after a very interesting tour of the back streets of suburban San Francisco, we duly arrive at the motorway an hour or so later than had we chosen 'quickest route'. This unfortunately placed us right in the middle of peak hour traffic - six or seven lanes of stop/start mayhem. This eventually clears and the open road lies ahead.
Route 50 - "the loneliest road in America," leads to the Great Basin National Park - the least well known and least visited park in the country. The road surface is excellent and the traffic light making for relaxed driving. The route traverses range after range of craggy, north-south aligned ranges interspersed with broad, flat saltbush plains with occasional herds of cattle, the odd ranch, a wind farm or two and signs of long-past mining activities here and there.
One of the few towns along the way is Austin, a real gem of an oasis in this arid landscape and a great place for lunch in a green and shady little park.
The Great Basin NP is centred on Mt Wheeler which, at just under 4000 metres, is the highest peak in the area. Along with its adjacent peaks, Mt Wheeler is described as "...a high-elevation archipelago of islands of cooler air and more abundant water. Richly varied plants and animals live up there that could not survive in the lower desert." Such plants include the Bristlecone Pine which can grow to 3000 years or more on the rocky higher slopes – reminiscent of the King Billy Pine in Tasmania.
We purchase our America The Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass - $80 and we can come and go with impunity to any National Park, National Monument or Federal Recreation Area.  A bargain considering that each individual Park Pass costs $20-$25.
 A short walk takes us t through stands of pine, spruce and aspen to the small glacial lakes of Stella and Teresa and introduces us to some of the local inhabitants - chipmunks, golden mantled ground squirrels and mule deer. Gathering storm clouds and plummeting temperatures herald an oncoming thunderstorm which, by morning, leaves a thin mantle of snow on the higher crags.
Unfortunately time does not permit a visit to the underground world of Lehmann Caves beneath the flanks of the Snake Range as we still have almost 960 kilometres to cover to reach Yellowstone.
Our journey northward takes us through the seemingly endless metropolis of Salt Lake City where we have to divert for repairs to a broken latch on one of the drawers in the RV. In spite of petrol usually being less than $4.00 US per gallon, it still hurts a little to find that $100 doesn't quite half fill the tank which then seems to empty despairingly quickly.
Having started in California seven days ago and traversed Nevada, Utah, Idaho and Montana (briefly), it is a relief to at last arrive in West Yellowstone and cross the Wyoming border into Yellowstone National Park.
Our overnight stay in Idaho Falls is at the Snake River RV Park…pancakes and coffee for breakfast and the gift of a stuffed snake to “make sure of our safety as we travel.”  Wombat has a mate!

Flickr link:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/112494332@N04/sets/72157647001878807/

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