Day Five 02.08.2012 Gobi Gurvan
Saikhan to Khavtsgait
Late start
today, so we have the morning to do what we will. Some walk, some wash bodies (again!) and find
more laundry. We have a leisurely
breakfast before packing our tent and going for a walk up in the hills. It’s another lovely day with high cloud and a
very mild temperature.
An early
lunch before heading on along the gorge, out through a very narrow gap in the
rocks…will the trucks really fit through?...yes, they will!!!...and out onto
the plains. We come across a stupa built
by locals to commemorate the monastery once on this site, but destroyed by the
Russians. We explore the ruins and watch
a lady from a nearby ger milking the horses.
The foals are tethered near the ger and the mares roam free, but return
to their foals at ‘suckling’ time. This
is the opportunity for the herders to allow the foals to feed and then milk the
mares for their airac (fermented mare’s milk) supplies. We haven’t had an airac tasting yet…our
drivers are the connoisseurs and they will let us know when the milk is right
for the tasting, probably when we get to Bulgan in a couple of weeks.
The
afternoon heats up and we are driving across, rather than parallel to, the dry stream
beds created by mountain storms. Makes
for uncomfortable driving for passengers and requires skill by the
drivers. We are camping in another gorge
tonight, but we must cross rolling desert plains, all green, and along the base
of a mountain range before arriving at ‘our’ hidden gorge. Small sand dunes are visible in the
distance. We turn into the gorge where
evidence of monster rain greets us and the road is eradicated…it is now a large
‘delta.’ We pass 2 stationary tour
trucks and go on to get first choice of campsite. The camp site we used in 2009 is overgrown so
we go on to a flatter area further up the gorge and set up. It’s still very warm but we spend a pleasant
evening, and “Dug” gives us our first ‘private’ toilet of the tour!!
Young Ibex from afar |
Take-off |
Khavtsgait |
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