Day Seven 04.08.2012 Ikh Avzaga Khairkhan Uul

Up early this morning for a sunrise camel ride – Maam and her elder daughter accompany us and delight in taking individual photos as we sit in various stages of comfort aboard our ‘ships.’ 

The cows are milked by the time we return and because Jess joined us on the camels, everyone pitches in to assist with breakfast.  When we go to the ‘kitchen’ to say goodbye, Maam and her daughters are busy shaking the butter churns…the girls, aged about 7 & 10, are on their summer vacation and no time is wasted as they help with jobs around the home.  Their school is across the sand dunes so they stay with relatives during the school week, only coming home on some weekends during term time.

We leave this most special place to drive out of the Gobi, through the Juniper trees, across the Altan Amyn pass, where we pause for yet another “WOW” view, and out onto the open steppe. Green rolling plains become the norm with the ‘roads’ still showing signs of heavy rains.  Water is to be ploughed through, sloshed around or avoided, as a last resort!  Our drive takes us through narrow gorge passes as well as open plains and the “Freeway” – Graeme’s name for where you are ‘free’ to take any ‘way’ you choose, sometimes up to 20 visible options!

We stop for water at the same time as a local herder brings his horses to drink.  Sandag and Richard assist with the transfer of water into the trough and when the thirsty horses have had their fill, or rather when the herder tells them they have, they move away and we collect our water

The annual Nadaam Festival takes place every year in July in UB, but local communities often have their own celebration at another time which suits them better.  The celebration takes in the traditional sports of Archery, Horse riding and, of course, Wrestling.  Today we come across a family celebration with several hundred people taking part in wrestling (which we missed), horse riding and a game which I can’t remember the name of, but it involves contestants squatting on small stools and flicking ankle bones (from sheep or goats) from a special board (everyone brings their own in a little bag) towards a target on a frame some 5 metres away.  Some are very skilled, others just have fun.

Because the weather is again unsettled and our campsite is probably very wet, we stay tonight in a small town in 2 gers, again made available by a family.  Jess and Turuu have built a very good network of local folk who they support by using their accommodation when required, buying their products such as airac, and, as well as paying for the accommodation, sometimes give them staples like flour, rice, and oil as a special thank-you.  We eat at a local restaurant where we have fun with the menu and the locals.

Watering time



WOW view

Lunch under the awning

"Ankle bones"

Family Nadaam

Dinner in style