Prime Time Travel

Day Nine 06.08.2012 Tsenkher Hot Spring

Before we go any further, an explanation or two…

1. The basic belief system in Mongolia is a combination of shamanism and Buddhism. The belief is expressed in the names of the mountains – most are holy or sacred as they are the closest thing on earth to the Eternal Blue Sky (Tenger.) Tall mountains are the king (khan) and are given strong titles. According to custom it is forbidden to pronounce the name of a mountain within its presence as it may anger the resident spirits.

2. As we travel across Mongolia we come across mounds of rocks and stones. They vary in size from a few rocks to large piles of rocks, stones and dirt. We sometimes see things like empty vodka bottles, sweets, money, crutches and blue scarves. These mounds are known as uvoos and are erected by local families and travellers to show gratitude and respect and to the honour the spirits of the surrounding land. They are circled three times in a clockwise direction and a small offering is made to ensure the safety of the trip, to ensure good fortune in life, or to give thanks for better health, a safe journey or maybe for much-needed rain. You don’t need to produce crutches or an empty vodka bottle – 3 small stones will do just as well.

3. The blue scarves, known as khadags, are traditional ceremonial scarves and are found blowing in the wind wherever you find an uvoo. The wind activates and carries the essence of the prayer whenever it blows and creates energy for the area in which the khadag rests.

Thanks to Jess for these explanations. If you need any further information, talk to us when we get home.

Rain!! The roads are quite badly affected but we are off to Kharkhorin, also known as Karakorum, the destroyed ancient city and ‘home base’ of Ogodei Khan. Erdene Zuu Monastery is our objective which we explore as the rain continues to fall. This is the first monastery built in Mongolia and is still considered it ‘sacred heart.’ Many of the buildings were destroyed by the Russians, but there is still an active population of monks and we are fortunate to be able to witness one of their daily prayer rituals.

As people choose where their interests lie, a few decide that the coffee shop may be an option…it’s wet and cold and the lady in the visitor centre is pleased to take our wet coats as we wander around. But, woe is us, the dear little coffee shop is closed!! Reclaim our coats and cross to the ‘shopping strip’ outside the walls…walls which are sheltering a number of goats as they huddle in the rain…to see if we can find refreshment. We see a lovely, young girl standing outside a ‘shop’ – a wooden frame with plastic draped over it and ‘secured’– and she says, in English, “Coffee – yes!” Julie, Graeme, John and I accept her offer, and we are served a large cup of hot, sweet, white coffee for 1000 TRG (about 80₵AUD). We are introduced to her sister who is the cook and are warmed by both the coffee and the experience.

Meanwhile, Turuu and Sandag have been to a local restaurant and ordered our lunch. They pick us up at the monastery and we are transported to a large plate of traditional noodles which really warms the cockles of our hearts. We are also mightily impressed by a young fellow and his little brother who are using a bucket and dustpan to scoop the water out of the ‘foyer’ of the restaurant. We wade in but are delighted to find that we are (sort of) dry on the way out!

Back on the road it’s still raining and the fun begins. Sandag’s truck can’t make it up a steep rise and, when he gets out to engage 4WD, finds he has lost the all-important allen-key required for the job. A passing driver stops to help out as we walk up the hill and watch as the truck also makes it over the top. Then there are two river crossings – the first one Turuu takes in his stride, but Sandag just makes it through. The second is deeper. A horse and rider cross first to test the depth for Turuu as Sandag puts plastic bags over the important engine bits, and away we go! Turuu’s passengers watch, photograph and video the epic and we all cheer as Sandag pulls the truck out of the water, and then inspect the driving lights where there is enough water to house a small number of exotic fish! But we are all dry and safely “on the other side!”

We see our first yaks today on the way across the steppe as we approach the Khangai Mountains forest. It is here, at the Tsenkher Hot Spring ger camp, that we have yet another new experience. Firstly we are met by young people from the camp who carry our bags to our gers, and then light our ger stoves! We appreciate this as it is a chance to dry out some quite wet gear. Graeme, however, is sleeping on the mother-side of the ger…that is, facing the stove opening as it’s the mother’s job to keep the home fires burning…and is not so enamoured with the possibility of ‘cooking’ during the night. We allow the fire to go out after it has thoroughly warmed us and the ger. While this is all happening we soak in the hot pool – or rather the warmish pool, until Julie and Richard use buckets to transfer really hot water from an adjoining pool (too hot to sit in) to heat things up a bit. We eat in the girls’ ger again – they love entertaining! – and spend another warm, dry night in this traditional accommodation.