Day Ten 07.08.2012 Tsagaan Nuur

Rain affected roads still an issue and our drivers continue to amaze us with their tenacity and skill.  We depart early for the town of Tsetserleg, the capital of Arkhangai province.  This is a chance to explore the fantastic markets and experience Mongolian life as it happens.  There are indoor market stalls and an extensive area outside where you can buy anything from a pair of plastic flip-flops for 2000TRG ($1.40AUD and they’re fantastic!) to a ger for $9000USD!  And everything in between, including a sheep from the back of a truck or a piece of sheepskin lying on the ground that might fit your cat-basket! Three supermarkets, a meat market (horse, yak, camel, mutton or beef, prepared, if you like, by a lady wielding a tomahawk!) fruit and vegetables (potatoes, onions, peppers, carrots, tomatoes, cucumbers, mainly), general household stuff, and lots of different sweets.  Richard becomes the ‘Purveyor of Sensational Sweets’ and advisor to the less talented.

Jess buys supplies and we head for lunch at Café Fairfield.  This café was set up by an Englishman and is now owned by an Australian couple from Sydney.  They have connections to a community of missionaries and are spreading the Christian word in this area as well as providing employment and training to local people, both in the restaurant and an attached accommodation facility.  This is to be our first opportunity to connect to the internet but, alas, foiled again…”Internet broken – we must fix it!”  So people, wherever you are in the world, we can’t talk to you just yet.  However, we can charge batteries.  Richard decides to climb to the Galdan Zuu Temple for an overview of Tsetserleg and we pick him up on our way out of town…just as well his status as ‘PSS’ makes him a required person!

Several years ago, Jess built a small uvoo overlooking a deep gorge on the way to White Lake.  She and Turuu tend this uvoo and have named it for her company, "Eternal Landscapes."  I have brought the khadag Jess gave me for my birthday in 2009 to place on the uvoo as a thank you for allowing John and me to return to Mongolia and in appreciation of her friendship.

After visiting the uvoo, we drive to  Khorg Uul, an extinct volcano  (2965m)where we climb to the crater’s rim for a fine view of the lake.  Many Mongolian families are also visiting today.  All except Graeme and I decide to join Jess in a stroll around the crater’s rim.  After Graeme returns to the truck,  I wait for the walkers and make some new Mongolian friends…they ask me to take their photos, then they want to take mine, then we have our photo taken all together by someone else, and then we have a sing-song, led by Mama in her bowler hat with tinsel decorations!

It’s not far to the edge of the lake and our overnight ger camp with Jargah and Batbold, a couple, who supplement their income in this way to educate their children.  Jargah, who has the best smile, cooks us a dinner of rice, coleslaw and chip potatoes with a sauce, followed by a bowl of freshly made yoghurt and a cup of hot tea.  Yum!!  Our ger stoves are lit by their 17 y.o son.  We enjoy another toasty night and all our gear is now dry.

Black kite?

Placing a khadag on Jess's uvoo

Graeme on the crater rim

Walking the rim