Day Fourteen 11.08.2012 Khovsgol Nuur

It’s a cold, damp morning and we move our tent out of the trees and into the sun so it won’t be quite so wet when we pack.  Jess has picked up the tummy wog that has bothered Julie, Meaghan, Janine and Suzanne, so we pitch in with the basic chores to assist Turuu pack up

It’s another long day’s drive today, broken by a visit to the town of Muron where we pick up supplies for our next few days at Lake Khovsgol…meat, veggies, gas for the stoves, eggs, beer and any personal items people require.  Another chance to wander around a regular market, with the interesting addition here of a line of Furgon vehicles for sale.  Some folk give Jess a hand to carry and stow goodies in the vehicles, Richard excels himself yet again with his selection of sweets, and Turuu buys a length of angle iron!

The weather looks threatening as we head north, but nothing eventuates where we are.  We make a detour from the ‘main road’, some of which is now new i.e. sealed, but most is under construction.  Our detour is to visit families Jess and Turuu employ for horse trek guiding and family ger stays in bad weather.  Again we enjoy seeing ‘working families’ doing what they do on a daily basis, and watching the animals around the gers…yaks sheep, goats, horses as well as dogs and cats – all part of like “on the farm.”

Finally, lake views!!  We stop at a family ger camp along the lake’s edge – the plan is to camp nearby so we can use the gers if the weather turns nasty.  Jess says ‘no’ because it’s too busy, so we go on the the place we camped in 2009, right on the edge of the lake, overlooking a sandy beach.  But…YUK!!  Big piles of rubbish have been left by previous users of the area, so Turuu picks up the shovel and some of us hold big bags which he fills, while others clear the area of general trash, including some toilet waste.  The sad thing is that Mongolians have a deep love and respect for the land, but don’t seem to be able to manage this part of their recreational lives.  We leave the bags and either a nearby ger camp or Park Rangers will pick it up for disposal.

Finally we have a usable campsite, so those who haven’t yet put up their tents do so and Jess, feeling a little bit better, puts the kettle on for a cuppa.  The lake is still beautiful and cold, warm jackets are needed and we collect wood for our fire.  “Dug” goes across the road and we have to follow a trail to the green bag, marked by white ‘flags’ tied to the trees.  Not long after we have settled in, the “shop” arrives.  Local ladies, who in 2009 arrived on motor bikes, now arrive in vans to set out their wares on the grass for us to peruse and purchase.  They do have some very pretty things and some are handmade and quite special.  I am able to find the beads that Barbara wants, and most people buy a little something for themselves or someone they love. 

Dinner is enjoyed overlooking an ever-changing lake and under a northern sky, with Siberia just a faint suggestion in the distance.  After warming up by the fire, we snuggle down for a warm night…inside anyway!  Those who are ‘fortunate’ enough to be outside at any time after midnight enjoy a clear night with a million stars!

Yak for dinner!

Doing business with the locals

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Follow the arrow at the green bag!

Lunch time

Common magpie